I recently built a shadow-box-style DIY thrifted frame shelf & cranked out a second one while I was at it. I can’t stop staring at them (or showing them off). I’ve been in dire need for some jewelry storage that doesn’t leave my necklaces in a tangled puzzle, but a standing necklace “organizer” left me worried about more clutter on my dresser and the way I’d have to remove all of them in order to get to one on the inside, know what I mean?
Either way, I was not going to settle and it turns out I didn’t have to. I saw this framed storage shelf at Urban Outfitters, but it wasn’t great for necklace storage. So I searched Etsy and found some more which had HOOKS and I was like YES. As much as I would love to support a maker on Etsy, I am also a maker so I started hunting down the perfect frame(s).
Now, I’m a DIYer at my core which means I tend to overcomplicate things if I have the chance. But I attempted 2 different frames with 2 different approaches. One was a little extra… and the other is super simple and beginner friendly.
In either case, this little DIY project can be easily completed in an afternoon.
The inspo:

The creation:

Table of Contents
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DIY Thrifted Frame Shelf Tools & Materials Used
- 2 thrifted frames (1 at 11×14, 1 at 8×10)
- 1 1x3x8 select pine board
- tape measure
- pencil
- speed square
- A saw (I used my circular saw)
- Wood Glue
- painters tape
- Brad nailer & 1.25″ 18 gauge nails OR large clamps
- Wood Filler (optional)
- 220 Sandpaper (optional)
- Rub n Buff
- a foam paint brush
- 1″ brass cup hooks
How to choose the right frame for a DIY framed storage shelf
There are a few things I always check out at a thrift store, and one of them is anything with a frame: picture frames, mirrors, large art, etc.
I’ve been leaning into more ornate designs and wanted more than a plain frame. I’ve made my own before when I framed my TV, and I learned how tricky it can be to get proper mitered cuts on trim with intricate details, so I knew I was going to thrift the frames for this project.
I wanted a frame that was at least 1″ wide all around, at least 3/4″ thick/deep, with a cool design, and at least 8×10 sizing. (I would’ve loved something close to 16×20, but haven’t found her yet).
After a couple unsuccessful thrift store trips, I finally came across 2 totally workable frames that fit the aesthetic I was going for.
There were actually some shadowboxes on my treasure hunt, but traditional shadowbox frames are not nearly deep enough to reach into, so we were going to have to add a deeper shelf frame to the back of whatever I found anyway.
These are the 2 frames I brought home. The openings are 11×14 and 8×10.

The width of the frame is to account for the 3/4″ thickness of the select pine lumber I like to use for these visible lumber moments. The depth of the frame is to account for that dimensional factor that makes it look like more than just any other shelf.
How to build a shadowbox frame
There are two options here, and I actually built the frame differently for each of the thrifted frames because I like to test out methods before committing to one I’d share.
The options are:
- mitered corners
- raw edge corners
The winner, for simplicity’s sake, is the raw edge corners. Because you’re gonna need wood filler on both, and I am not staining the wood. Staining a 3/4″ raw edge does not look *great*. But since I opted to cover the wood entirely, both options ended up looking the same, so the raw edges win here.
*if I find a natural wood frame, I absolutely would stain the box to match and would prefer the mitered edges.
step by step
1. cut 2 pieces at the height of the frame (or a little shorter for a slight overhang of the frame)
2. cut 2 pieces at the width minus 1.5″ (1.5″ = 2 x 3/4″ to account for the 2 pieces on each side) and whatever overhang depth you’re going for. These pieces will sit inside the outer pieces.



3. dry fit the pieces on the back of the frame (& get excited)
4. dab a generous bit of glue on the inner width pieces

5. place the height pieces on the glued edges and hold in place with painters tape

6. nail or clamp the edges together, keeping the corners flush with each other
✨voila✨
How to attach a shadow box shelf frame to a thrifted frame
Once I again, I used 2 different approaches. On one, I actually drilled pocket holes and attached the frame to the box frame with screws. I didn’t love it, but can never turn down an excuse to use my kreg jig lol.
I actually over-drilled and cut through the front of the frame with one screw. I’m just ignoring it for now. Gives it character I guess 🥴
For the second frame, I played it safe (and simple!) and attached the thrifted frame to the shadowbox frame with just a bunch o’ wood glue.
Wood glue is notoriously strong. The nails in the corners of the frame are supposedly less strong than the glue. They’re only there to let the glue settle without too much space between the wood. Which is why just clamping it would do the trick as well.
The winning process:
1. dab a generous amount of glue on the rim of the shadow box frame

2. situate the frame on top the box evenly placed all around
3. let it dry with either a heavy weight or clamps on multiple points

I left it while I picked up the kids from school and it was dry when I got home an hour later.
Finishing the DIY Thrifted Frame Shelf
Smear wood filler over raw edges, seams, and nail holes as needed
I use plastic wood and a small putty knife, but often just use my fingers. I am very generous with it. Think schmear, like a bagel.


After that dries, I sand it smooth-ish with some 220 sandpaper (while catching up on my shows)

Installing hooks for necklace storage
After determining which side would be up and making sure my necklaces wouldn’t hang out of the frame, I marked the wood with spots about half the depth of the shadowbox, and about 1″ apart.

Then I drilled little pilot holes with a super small drill bit (optional but makes it easier to start screwing the hooks in).

Next I started spinning those screw hooks in. One by one. Gotta be honest, this was probably the hardest part 😅
As it gets deeper, it gets harder to twist them and I could’ve used some pliers to make it easier.
Gilding it with Rub & Buff
I finished both frames with a blend of 3 Rub & Buff colors. Using a foam brush and spreading it around to cover the raw wood. I didn’t even prime it and it looks great.
Rub & Buff is so cool. Dries instantly, cleans easily, and just needs to be “polished” with a clean dry cloth. I used a microfiber cloth, and I have to note that the rag was *not* ruined. Love when that happens.
The whole process took 20 minutes for both frames.
The final products in action




more sneaky storage DIYs you might like
- DIY built-in window bench with storage
- Easy DIY Faux Stone Fireplace with hidden storage & stone texture
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